What or how do I glass bed a type III perazzi forend

I have a type 3 forend and it keeps slipping forward.I have had gunsmiths put lock tite but it still moved. I have never taken on apart but a buddy said I can fill in the wood with some J B wield.Keep in mind I haven't looked at it yet but I know there is someone that solved there problem here. Looking for a tip!!
Monty

 

I'm mostly familiar with glass bedding in rifles, but Brownell's sells a very famous system.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ock-bedding-adhesives/acraglas--prod1033.aspx

 

You should be able to use JB Weld, Marine Tex, etc to tighten up the area where the wood is inletted for the forearm metal (if it needs it)........ BE SURE to coat the metal with a RELEASE AGENT!!!!

Monty - one thing you may try, just to see if that is your problem, is to place some thin card-stock between the wood and the metal and tighten it up---- if that does not work bedding may not be your solution.

Doc

 

Monty,

When you state that the wood is slipping forward, do you mean that the wood appears loose from the forend iron or that the forend iron is moving on the barrel.

On type 3 the forend iron is in two pieces the inner which is the longest and the shorter of the two which is on the outside/underside of the wood, These are held together by two screws thru the wood. Sometimes these screws come loose and this is where blue locktite will help after making certain that the 2 screws are very tight.

If the forend feels loose on the barrel then as Doc suggested above shims between the wood and the lower forend iron will solve the problem. Depending on how loose the forend is on the barrel paper shims under each screw between the lower forend iron and the wood of the forearm would be a way to start, sometimes it does not take much. Hope this helps as I have corrected this problem for other shooters by using the shims.

If the forend is moving on the Barrel then the stop inside the upper forend iron inside the latch area is badly worn and requires replacement. The lug on the barrel could also be worn requiring a repair which requires welding and refitting.

 

The wood is moving on the iron. it won't and doesn't stay tight. I made a shim earlier today at work not of plastic.looked like a tight fit....only one problems...it wouldn't snap on the gun...I obviously don't know what I'm doing

 

Ahhhh -- no comment

 

Romi,
If the forend will not snap on the barrel your shim you made is too thick, try making shims out of paper start with one thickness at a time and increase as necessary. You will need two pieces one under each area where the screws go thru the wood and fasten the two pieces of the forend together. When to get it right then is the time to use locktite on the screws.

You could also build up the wood area with plastic wood where the lower part of the forend iron fits but, this is a lot of work and taking out the excess to make it flat and level for the iron to fit properly. This I don't recommend unless you know exactly what you are doing and are comfortable with it.

The paper shims work fine and more can be added in the future if required.

 

I went to Lowes and bought some red loc tight it made it through a 200 bird shoot today....…...... Thanks oldphart...... I'll try the paper I made the shim where it won't move north and south.

 

OOOOHHH OOOOOH On the Red Loc-tite, it will be hell to get screws loosened, this was the place for the BLUE LOC-TITE

GB DLS

 

You can easily loosen Red Loctite by heating, use a soldering iron on the screw head, this will not hurt the screw then use the screw driver and take the screws out. Clean the screw threads re-apply the loctite and you're ready to go.

 

oldphart - another trick I have used is to put the screwdriver in the screw slot - clamp a vise-grip on the screw driver shaft just below the handle as a heat block and apply heat to the screw driver shaft with a small torch until the screw loosens and comes tight out --- heat will turn red loctite, or epoxy, to a soft puddy.....

 

Doc, you are right heating the screw driver shaft with the screw driver in the screw slot works well, it this case you have very little room to work and you have to be careful of the forend wood.
As you have stated heat works well on on screws or any surface where loctite and and epoxy have been used. Shoot well.

 

Red locktite seems to be working till I can get to a gunsmith. I talked to a gunsmith in California that said he has the screws in Allen heads. I forgot his name but white wiz told me about him.I'll send it to him this fall

 

Romie,
You could get the Allen screws from a hardware store or at Lowes probably a lot cheaper and sooner than from a gunsmith, match them up with your existing screws. Just thinkin.

 

Maybe so looks like a very short weird screw. maybe someone at the Grand.

 

Romie,
If the heads on the allen screws are too large to fit into the forend iron turn them down to size by putting the screws in a drill press and using a file turn the head down to fit into the forend iron. have done this many times and it works.

 

What about the locking screw that keeps it from coming out?

 

Romie,
I have never had to use the locking screw after the initial removal, if the locking screw is necessary you would have to relieve the side of the screw after you tigthen the screw to align the relief for the locking screw. It is difficult to align the original screw with the relief for the locking screw after tigthening the screw sufficiently that is why the locking screw is very seldom reinstalled and loctite is used. Hope this helps.

 

I got it!.. I didn't have any Idea Lowes had the screw.I usedthe red locktight on the old screw and it seems to be holding I know if I got a new screw it would work better.
Thanks
Monty